Day 67 - 68 Miles to Breaks, VA

Thursday, July 31 - 68 miles to Breaks, VA, 3,900 total miles. Virginia, my last state! And only 9 more days til I finish! Ate breakfast at the B&B - cold cereal, orange juice, coffee, banana, and a peach. It was a tough one today. The heavy rain began before my tent was taken down so it is soaking wet - no way am I camping tonite. It rained most of the day and mostly it was pretty refreshing. Had 4 significant climbs but the one on Rte. 611 was horrible and tough as places in the road were washed away. But I made it. Coal trucks went by & I was covered in road grime although at times there was no traffic. Snacked on a bagel, apple, and plum. Stopped at a dairy bar for lunch and the workers were surprised that a customer came in. I asked, "what do you have?" and the reply was "not much." I ate a loaded hamburger (lettuce, tomato, onion, ketchup, etc.) and a chocolate milkshake. No wildlife today.

I ended up at Breaks Interstate Park, one of only 2 interstate parks in the nation. Breaks is on the border of Virginia and Kentucky, 7 miles east of Elkhorn, KY and 8 miles south of Haysi, VA. Breaks is the Grand Canyon of the South. The lodge is on top of the mountain and I had to run the heat to get warmed up when I arrived. People were wearing sweaters outside. And for the first time in ages, I took a bath. I had to get all the grime off of me! Dinner was at the lodge restaurant which had a nice view looking across the mountain. Ate meatloaf, mashed potatoes, green beans, salad, and pecan pie ala mode.

Footnote - Eastern Kentucky didn't live up to the negative hype heard from other cyclists. Drivers were courteous, roads in good shape (lack of guardrails, though), and no dogs chased after me. Trailer homes, however, are placed right at the edge of the road, not the shoulder. Scary.

I kept the heat on last night!

Day 66 - 44 Miles to Hindman

Wednesday, July 30 - 44 miles to Hindman, 3,832 total miles. Breakfast was a special order of pancakes made for me. Normally the cafe heats up pre-made pancakes but I told them about my experience out West with pancakes so they rose to the occasion. Had pancakes, 4 slices of bacon, and coffee. The special pancakes rivaled the western pancakes! No wildlife today. Lunch was a peanut butter and cinnamon raisin bagel and candy. It was hot but not sweaty today. I have had an incredible craving for fresh fruit and gorge every chance. I had four plums in a row! Looks like I wrap up in about ten days. I'm spending tonight camping in Hindman, KY at the Historical Society B&B catering to cyclists. David met me at the top of the hill with a glass of fresh ice tea and an offer for a shower and use of his computer. Dinner was pork chops, cole slaw, green beans, and a banana split. Tomorrow should be my last day in KY. --Tom

Day 65 - 75 Miles to Buckhorn

Tuesday, July 29 - 75 miles to Buckhorn, 3,784 total miles. Moderately hilly with a couple of significant climbs. No rain today, it's a nice country and nice people. Saw 1 deer. Got off course and took a right instead of a left; climbed 2 miles at a 6% incline. I said to myself, "I don't think this is right." Consulted with a local person for about 10 minutes about the route and decided to continue on and get back on course up ahead rather than backtrack. Had a hamburger for lunch. I set up my tent in the primitive section of the campground. Dinner was salmon cakes, country fried potatoes, pinto beans, cornbread, tomatoes, and a huge side salad. Tonite's a laundry night, too.

Day 64 - 46 Miles to Berea

Monday, July 28 - 46 miles to Berea. Began the day with breakfast at the Huddle House - one waffle, eggs, bacon, and coffee. Took it slow and easy to give my body time to recover (I was worn out from last week's climbs). Saw one westbound cyclist heading to Seattle. No wildlife. Found a decent room at a Day's Inn and there'll be breakfast for me in the morning. I was heading out for lunch after showering but buckets of rain descended upon me so I turned back. Took a nap instead, it felt so good! The rain stopped so I headed out again to Subway for a sandwich, coke, and 3 cookies. I planned on saving 2 cookies for later but couldn't make up my mind and ended up eating all 3 right then.

Day 63 - 45 Miles to Harrodsburg

Sunday, July 27 - 45 miles to Harrodsburg, 3,666 total miles. Had a Belgian waffle, cereal, banana, coffee, and orange juice for breakfast. Today was hot, the hills were rolling and moderate. Kathy found a great place to wait for me midway at Lincoln Homestead State Park. Besides the old buildings and a golf course, the park had flush toilets, a bench under a tree where she was reading when I startled her (she wasn't expecting me to arrive so fast), and no one other than golfers was around. I checked into the Economy Inn where we had a late lunch - a turkey and ham sandwich, potato chips, more fruit, and gatorade. Kathy and I drove around Harrodsburg to scope out dinner possibilities for me but nothing was open other than Wendy's and Huddle House. That's been my experience lately with restaurants closed down for lack of staff or due to the economy. Before leaving for home, Kathy made me a sandwich which I ate for dinner along with potato chips, 3 candy bars, and a moon pie. Not very substantial but the other choices didn't excite me. I miss my honey! I sent a few more things home as I wind down my journey. My tentative schedule for the last 2 weeks is:

Berea, KY - Mon. - 7/28
Buckhorn, KY - Tues. - 7/29
Hindman, KY - Wed. - 7/30
Elkhorn, KY - Thurs. - 7/31
Damascus, VA - Fri. - 8/1
Wytheville, VA - Sat. - 8/2
Christianburg, VA - Sun. - 8/3
Buchanan, VA - Mon. - 8/4
Vesuvius, VA - Tues. - 8/5
Charlottesville, VA- Wed. -8/6
Mineral, VA - Thurs. -8/7
Mechanicsville, VA - Fri. - 8/8
Yorktown, VA - Sat. - 8/9

Two Views of Tom Eating A Pluot

What in the world is a pluot? It's a hybrid cross of 3/4's plum and 1/4 apricot. Very juicy and good to eat! Tom ate 4 of them today.

Tom Out of Character at Comfort Inn, Bardstown 7-26 Ahhh!

The "Group" for a Few Days Week of 7-20

Lucy & Arnold - Lucas, KY Storeowners

Thanks for food, camping, and wonderful hospitality!

Gary Hinklin - Warrenton, VA Middle School Teacher

Sisters Blair & Austa - San Francisco to Yorktown

Mark & John (Arizona to Yorktown) with Dog in Utica, KY

Crossing the Ohio River to Kentucky - My Nautical Century

Crossing Mississippi into Illinois

Chris at Eminence, MO Campsite

Chris Perry Surprised Me on the Road in Missouri

Gene Vogel Met Me in Houston for Dinner

Success or Houston - I Chose Houston

Dallas Sullens in His General Store at Fairview, MO

Sea of Lavender Flowers - Chicory?

Ashgrove City Park Campsite

Mayor Brenda of Ashgrove, MO Welcomed Jim & Me

Tom Riding and Enjoying the Day

Jim Craven in Front of Cooky's Cafe - Best Pies

Snapping Turtle & Bike in Eastern Kansas

Day 62 - 74 Miles to Bardstown

Saturday, July 26 - 74 miles to Bardstown (pop. 10,374), 3,611 total miles. And a happy reunion with Kathy! Traveled again with the group of 5 others (sisters Blair & Austa, one from Portland, OR, and one from New York; Mark & John from Arizona, and Gary, a Virginia middle school teacher.) My diet was more fruit (melon, apple, bananas, and pluots), salad and fish today. A pluot is a cross hybrid consisting of 3/4's plum and 1/4 apricot. I ate 4 pluots today and they are juicy and delicious. The temperature was in the 90s and the humidity high and hot, humid summer days are returning. Moderately hilly today, not bad, but it's expected to change as I move into the Appalachians. The highlight of my day was pulling into the Comfort Inn and seeing Kathy. Air conditioning is wonderful and so nice. We went to Mass at a beautiful church, Basilica of Saint Joseph Proto-Cathedral. Then, we dined at The Old Talbott Tavern which sure beats ramen noodles. We both had salmon, salad, wild rice, biscuits, and vegetables.

Day 61 - 70.6 miles near Leitchfield

Friday, July 25 - 70.6 miles near Leitchfield, actually 12 miles away (Rte. 84 & 920). My friend Larry Long who grew up here knows my location. Breakfast wasn't very healthy, biscuits and breakfast pork chops. It was overcast and cooler than usual. Relaxing. Rode with a group of 8 bikers today. Nice! Had a huge lunch - roast beef smothered in gravy, mashed potatoes, and blackberry cobbler. I'm camping behind a Mom & Pop store. The owners greeted our group with flavored icicles. Then, Arnold and Lucy Lucas (the owners) provided dinner - hamburgers, corn on the cob, and cucumber salad. It was on the house! It was really appreciated and good, too. I get another visitor tomorrow, my wife! Kathy joins me Saturday afternoon in Bardstown (tomorrow's destination) for an overnight visit.

Day 60 - 70 Miles to Utica, KY

Thursday, July 24 - 70 miles to Utica, 3,478 total miles. Moderately hilly. Stopped at an old fashioned drug store which didn't have food but I asked and they allowed me to eat my peanut butter and bagel sandwich. What the drug store did have was a fountain. I drank a large coke, a chocolate milkshake, and as I wasn't satisfied, topped it off with a chocolate malt shake. I promise my doctor to be better and get back on my healthy eating habits. Camped behind the firehouse.

Day 59 - My First Nautical Century to Marion, KY

Wednesday, July 23 - 103.6 miles cyling and 1 mile on the ferry across the Ohio River to Marion (pop. 3,200), Kentucky. My first nautical century and another new state! The hills were hilly and tough. Saw 3 does and 3 fawns. Had fruit, yogurt, and pastry for breakfast, a quart of gatorade and peanut butter on a bagel for lunch, and 3 bananas, 2 plums, and cherries during the ride. Saw several other cyclists during the day and more at the campsite, including Gary who I've cycled with before on this trip. My campsite is at the fairgrounds and near a ballpark. Gary and I had dinner together at the cafe and ate roast beef, beans, corn, mashed potatoes, salad, and chocolate pie. Time for bed as I'm tired.

Day 58 - 48 Miles to Carbondale, IL

Tuesday, July 22 - 48 miles between storms from Chester, IL to Carbondale (pop. 20,681). Total miles so far are 3,305. Awakened to thunder and heavy rain/wind. Got up and had breakfast - 3 bowls of raisin bran & shredded wheat, French toast, 2 glasses of orange juice, coffee, and a pastry. Then went back to bed w/o any guilt! Got up again an hour later when the rain stopped and hit the road at 8:45 with overcast sky and cooler temperature. First 8 miles were a continuation of residual challenging hills. The Missouri Ozarks had some of the toughest climbs yet. It was like someone had been ordered to make roads straight - regardless of terrain. I used my lowest gear (granny gear) and had to stand on most of my climbs to make headway. I simply couldn't muscle my way up otherwise. Normally I sit through virtually all my climbs, until recent days with the straight, steep, unrelenting up and down, in-your-face climbs that are now behind me. Enough about that. After the first 8 miles, Illinois has delivered gently rolling hills that only require pleasant sit-down climbs. No wildlife today. Lunch was peanut butter on a bagel, pepsi, and a snickers. Dinner was at Denny's, a shrimp skewer, fruit drink, and a chocolate milkshake.

Thanks again to Chris for your visit. For those following the blog, Chris offered (and I accepted) to swap bikes for parts of the two days we traveled together. I felt that Chris needed the experience, and the triathlon power training for his September IronMan race in Wisconsin. Also, with the swap, our combined average speed increased allowing Chris to get back home sooner on Sunday. It also reduced the MO misery index. The weather is expected to improve tomorrow, and I hope to make greater distance. --Tom

Day 57 - 58 Miles to Chester, Illinois

Monday, July 21, 58 miles to Chester, Illinois; 3,256 total miles to date. Yes, a new state! Began the day with breakfast - 2 scrambled eggs, bacon, Belgian waffles, coffee, and orange juice. Saw a picturesque scene, a deer in a nice quiet stream drinking. Lunch was a Subway turkey sandwich and 20-ounce bottles of green ice tea and power ade, which I drank both at lunch, went down real smooth. The hills in middle Missouri were tougher than any I saw in all the Rockies, very steep and tiring in the hot and humid conditions. The hills today were not as bad as the previous few days, but there were some surprises. It was hot, humid, hotter than yesterday. Saw one cyclist going West and a few others going East. After 2 hot nights camping, I checked into a Best Western in Chester (pop. 13,924), the home town of Popeye the Sailor Man. Walking to dinner, I passed the Spinach Can Collectible antique store. Dinner tonite is at the Ol' Farmhouse Cafe & Bakery.

Day 56 - 93 Miles near Farmington

Sunday, July 20 - 93 miles near Farmington. The day started out with my 2nd flat tire since the journey began. Chris had driven ahead to park his car so he could bike towards me to join me for another day of cyling with his dad. The hills were the steepest ever since I began my trip. There were no switchbacks and the climb was straight up! It's hard to believe the these hills in Missouri would be more challenging than the climbs out West but they were. And no, I did not have to get off my bike and walk it up. Chris met 4 cyclists as he was heading towards me and the group, including one (Gary) who I met a few days ago, agreed that today's hills were the worst that they've experienced. I pulled into a state park for the night (hopefully things will quiet down after the locals leave) and after setting up my tent, will eat my favorite dinner, ramen noodles and packaged salmon. All in all, it was a pleasant weekend beginning with dinner with Gene on Friday nite and Chris's visit yesterday and today.

Day 55 - 43 Miles to Eminence

Saturday, July 19 - 43 miles to Eminence. About 12 miles into my day, I was cruising along when I saw an oncoming cyclist with no saddlebags or panniers, a day rider, I thought. He said something like "misery loves company" and he looked familiar. Turned out that my older son, Chris, decided to surprise me this weekend. He asked Kathy (his mom, my wife) to see if I would know where my Saturday destination would be. Usually I have an idea where I'll be riding to the next day but sometimes conditions I encounter during the day alter my decision. Because Eminence had an evening Mass at 7:30, that town would be Saturday's destination. Chris was in cahoots with Kathy so she relayed him this bit of information. He left Nashville after work on Friday and drove to Eminence where he slept in his vehicle. Today, Chris started cycling towards me when he surprised me. A very special day! After reaching Eminence, we ate dinner at a steak buffet - had rib eye, pork chops, baked potato, salad, and 3 desserts (2 chocolate pies and a blackberry cobbler). To top it off, Chris picked up the check before I knew it was on the table. We went to Mass at St. Sylvester's to finish the evening. Tomorrow we'll bike together some more with Chris driving his car up the road and parking it somewhere, then biking with me before returning to retrieve his car and heading back to Nashville.

Day 54 - 64 Miles to Houston

Friday, July 18 - 64 miles to Houston, 3,062 total miles. Had a great breakfast - eggs, yogurt, sweet rolls, raisin bran, coffee, orange juice, and apple juice. The Missouri misery index is a function of temperature, humidity, length of hills, steepness of hills, and number of hills. Today was actually an easier day although there were more miles and hotter temperature. The dips are deep, it looks like some oncoming cars get swallowed up by the road. Saw geese today, that's it. Took pictures of beautiful roadside flowers - black eyed susans, chickory. Checked in at the Horsecreek Inn which is real bike friendly. Met Gene Vogel, a longtime friend, for dinner - Sam Adams beer, lasagna, salad, nachos, and chocolate cake. I didn't tell him where I would be and when I walked into my room, he walked in right behind me. So I was kind of surprised. On to Eminence on Saturday.

Day 53 - 46 miles to Marshfield, MO

July 17, Thursday - After breaking camp and then pancakes and oatmeal early this morning, Jim Craven and I hit the road for Marshfield, MO, where Jim met his wife, Ruthie - today is her birthday. The rollers were plentiful and steeper today. I had to stand on the pedals in my granny gear to climb some of them. It was hot today and the humidity is climbing as we head east. Sweat is rolling off more now in contrast to western Kansas and points west. Jim will be off tomorrow, while I'll be heading to Houston, MO, to meet Gene Vogel for dinner.

Day 52 - 69 Miles to Ash Grove, Missouri

Wednesday, July 16 - 69 miles to Ash Grove, Missouri leaving Kansas behind this morning after 24 minutes on my bike. Began the day with Mass at Our Lady of Lourdes where they were celebrating the feast of Our Lady of Mt. Carmel. I got confused thinking it was a holy day or my son's birthday, both of which are one month from now. Breakfast was cold cereal, bagel, coffee, and orange juice. Saw a buffalo (domestic one) today and also yesterday. Getting back into the hills, short but steep rollers. Ate a hamburger and pepsi at Cooky's Cafe (known for its pies) in Golden City and topped off the meal with dutch apple pie ala mode, the best pie ever, I've never had a better pie! I checked in with the Ash Grove police (again, I'm not in trouble) for camping in the park and had my picture taken with the mayor in front of the city hall. I bought containers of blueberries and strawberries, strawberries and pineapple, mixed nuts, a banana, and a bagel and ate it all for dinner.

Day 51 - 59 Miles to Pittsburg

Day 51 - 59 miles to Pittsburg (pop. 19,243), 2,883 total trip miles. Breakfast was a McGriddle, yogurt, coffee, and orange juice at McDonalds where I met a WWII pilot and semi-retired dentist who was interested in seeing my detailed maps. We talked about 10 minutes, then I departed but not before noticing the "good old girls" table where a group of women in their 80's were chatting away. I've seen a lot of "good old boys" in my travels across America at the small-town cafes and gathering spots who meet for breakfast and talk about the news and local gossip. It was hot and humid today (I'm not complaining!) but otherwise uneventful though I had to take some detours. Didn't make it to Missouri but tomorrow I will as it's just a few miles away. Didn't see any cyclists. No wildlife either. Booked a motel room and ate at Chili's - chicken fajitas and a yummy chocolate paradise for dessert.

Day 50 - 63 Miles to Chanute

Monday, July 14 - 63 miles to Chanute (pop. 9,411), 2,824 total miles to date. My day started at the bowling alley grill with the usual pancake breakfast. The cook came out of the kitchen to make sure that I ate all the pancakes! It was a quiet day with some wind picking up during the day, part headwind, and I was assisted - by the wind - about 1/3 of the way. It was relaxed today, not much traffic. Saw a deer. Stopped at a Sonic for a chocolate milkshake, tropical smoothie, and water and when asked if any of the order was "to go"and I replied that I was drinking it all right then. Saw my first cyclist on the road in 2 days, Daniel, who was westward bound. I set up camp in the city park campground adjacent to a ball field. After setting up the tent, I relaxed in the breeze on my thermarest pad. The breeze feels good when I'm not on the bike having it go against me. I went to dinner with 2 other cyclists from the campground and ate Italian - corkscrew pasta, salad, and beer. Tomorrow, I should be through Kansas and heading into Missouri.

Day 49 - 74 Miles to Eureka

Sunday, July 13 - 74 miles to Eureka (pop. 2,914), 2,760 total miles. After breakfast of pancakes, medium orange juice (20 ounces!), 2 bananas, pineapple, yogurt, and coffee, I lingered a bit before leaving Newton. I cleaned and oiled the drive train, adjusted the fittings on my bike, and did other routine maintenance. It was going to be a light day as I planned to go 38 miles. The winds were calm, temperature was moderate (mid 80's-90), traffic was light on the roads, and it was a very relaxing day. It was so nice and pleasant that I decided to continue pedaling. Had a bagel with peanut butter for a snack. I did not see any more grain elevators which were prevalent in the western part of Kansas. My route took me through Cassoday, the world's capital of prairie chicken (grouse).

I was buzzed by a crop duster so I crouched down low and kept on cycling. The plane was pretty close, within 15-20 feet of me. A bit unnerving! A snapping turtle on the road, a bunch of blue herons, egrits, deer, and miniature deer on a farm added to the wildlife seen on the trip. Eureka is my home for the night. Did you know that Eureka got its name when an early pioneer shouted "eureka" after discovering a spring of water, now known as the Fall River? Eateries close down early in the small towns so I picked up a chicken dinner, corn, potato salad, roll, and a cookies & cream mousse dessert at the store.

I talked to my son Chris who finished 25th out of over 1,000 finishers in the Chattanooga Waterfront Triathlon (1.5K swim, 42K bike, and 10K run) today with a time of 2:14:58. There was a heavy downpour during the bike phase of his race. Great job, Chris!

Sign for Exotic Animal Bed & Breakfast

Camel at Exotic Animal Bed & Breakfast

Simpson U. Riders Helped Me Cheat Wind with Pace Line

Entering Kansas

"Emptiness" Near Kansas Border

Gillian by Charred Remains at her Farm

Gillian With Dog

Day 48 - 40+ Miles to Newton

Saturday, July 12 - 40+ miles to Newton. Last night, I turned out the lights around 9:30, it's a little spooky at first hearing noises in a strange place but I drifted off to sleep. Around 10:45 p.m., 2 people came into the basement and said, "Sir, can you wake up?" I was groggy and didn't know what was going on. They said that 6 more bikers were joining me in the church basement between 11:00 - 11:30. So much for a good sleep as I had the quackers and the honkers the previous night, now very late arrivals were waking me up. I pretended to be asleep while the new people were walking and talking loudly until they noticed me "sleeping behind a curtain;" then the large group suddenly quieted down using whispers instead. Grrr, 2 nights in a row without a good sleep.

I left at 6:30 this morning after lathering on the sunscreen which takes up to 10 minutes to properly apply. It was raining outside but I didn't know as there was no window in the basement. The rain let up a little and I stopped at McDonald's for a big breakfast - scrambled eggs, hash browns, pancakes, sausage, orange juice, and coffee. Got back on my bike and stopped again at a convenience store as it was raining harder and the temperature was about 61. It rained most of the day off and on. I stopped a third time to buy chocolate milk. Fresh chocolate chip cookies were coming out of the oven so I bought some cookies, too. Then it was pouring and a big wind was pummeling me and trucks were blasting me with spray. Had my first flat tire of the trip so off came the rear panniers in order to fix the flat which is harder to do on the rear tire as they're gears to contend with.

I checked into a motel, did laundry, biked to Mass at Our Lady of Guadalupe, and had a steak dinner.

Day 47 - 70 Miles to Hutchinson

Friday, July 11, 70 miles to Hutchinson (pop. 40,000) , 2,647 total trip miles. P.S. to Thursday's update. Don't ever sleep by a pond near ducks and geese as they quack and honk all night long. Breakfast was pancakes and an egg sandwich. It was hot and windy today, wore me down but I'm not complaining. Snacked on a hamburger. Wildlife galore today! Saw buffalo on a farm, then I lucked out. Ostriches, zebras, camels, and giraffes! It wasn't the city zoo but an exotic animal bed and breakfast in Nickerson. I apparently cycled past the Biggest Loser but didn't realize it until later after reaching Hutchinson. I'm bedding down in the basement of a Lutheran church tonite & saw an entry from the Biggest Loser who stayed the previously night. Also saw the "Hey Dude" guys from several nights ago who felt guilty about taking a zero day on Wednesday (a cycling day off) & biked 142 miles yesterday and camped by the side of the road. Dinner will be my favorite gourmet dinner of ramen noodles and package of chicken. There's nobody else here - it's still early though - but maybe I'll get a good night's sleep.

Day 46 - 65 Miles to Larned

Thursday, July 10 - 65 miles to Larned, KS (pop. 4,200) in an unbelievable horrific headwind 30-40 mph. Everyone was talking about it! It was hot today, close to 100! There was a hint of a tailwind on the first stretch, then the wind was coming from the S/SW. Saw 6 riders and closed within a bridge length but couldn't catch them. I was cycling at 4 mph. Later on I saw a group of 3 cyclists fully supported & carrying only water so they invited me, with my fully loaded bike, to "hop on with them" and I got my speed up to 10 mph. No wildlife but I'm starting to see trees again. Nice!

Snacked on a hot dog earlier in the day and upon reaching Larned, I checked in with the police department (don't worry, I am not in trouble, it's just a requirement if you want to camp in the city park.) I set up my tent next to the picnic pavilion and took a cold shower (there was hot water but it felt so good to cool down). I bought some groceries and ordered a small Papa John's pepperoni, mushroom, and green pepper pizza which I ate along with a pre-made Caesar salad (I ate the whole bag of salad!), raspberry yogurt, and chocolate milk.

About Gillian and the Ordway, CO Fire

I mentioned in an earlier posting staying at Gillian's place in Ordway, CO, a small rural community in eastern Colorado. She is a strong, proud, independent woman. A new Zealander of English extract, she has sailed and cycled different parts of the world and knows the basic cyclist's needs - cold water to drink, a shower, shelter, a place to do laundry, and (these days) a computer for internet access. Gillian Hoggard runs a small farm with a menagerie of animals - ducks, geese, turkeys, goats, sheep, and horses. She works a forty-hour job in the county. She has two grown sons. She graciously opens her home for any passing cyclist and asks for nothing in return. The only thing she doesn't offer is food; she "has seen how much food cyclists can eat!"

In April, this year, a fire swept through the Ordway area and took about 25 homes including Gillian's place. Two fire fighters were killed and lots of livestock succumbed to smoke and flames. Gillian's neighbors helped her rebuild, and she has been in her new home for less than two weeks. She had not planned to host cyclists this year, but they started showing up and she graciously resumed allowing them to stay as well as encouraging them to spread the word by the riders' grapevine that they were welcome. In fact she was still in a FEMA trailer and allowed riders to stay in the new house before it was completed. Most of Gillian's animals survived in a relatively untouched corner of her farm. Gillian's spirits survived as well, but I think she is still a bit numb from the total loss and adjusting to the unique role of a person receiving aid and assistance. She got out with the clothes she had on and her purse, but lost everything else in the house as well as her barns and ample supply of hay. She has taken to displaying cooled, molten puddles of metal as art work, displaying one piece on the side of a replaced barn. I know Gillian is resillient and will rebound, but she seems most at a loss with the trees taken by the fire. One of her most urgent needs is for hay. I saw great hope and excitement when during the morning animal rounds, she found a newly hatched duckling that was not expected.

Gillian never asked for anything and probably wouldn't. I asked what her greatest need was and she indicated actual help rebuilding. She had the idea (typical of her giving mindset) of people helping by "surrogate" means. In other words, look at other peoples' needs (particularly disaster related) closer to home, and help them in lieu of trying to get to her. She has such a big heart for others (and for her animals), it just seems that there ought to be a way for people to reach out and maybe help her and the others losing their homes in this recent fire. I'm thinking about it and hope to come up with something. Any ideas? For me, Gillian has really put a face on a distant disater. I'm touched by it. I may have more to relate about this in a later posting.
--Tom

Day 45, 53 miles Scott City to Ness City, KS

Day 45 - 53 miles to Ness City, 2,513 total miles. I think the word "City" used in the names of some communities may be incongruous with what is actually there. Food was atop my highlights list today. Breakfast saw three large pancakes and a scrambled egg and coffee. After 25 miles pedaling, I stopped at a small grocery store for fruit - a cantelope, 3 apples and 3 bananas, and orange juice. Now, after lunch in Ness City I'm down to a banana and an apple. I don't think they will last 'til dinner, though. I stopped again for cup cakes and a cold drink to go with a bagel (from Pueblo) and peanut butter (from one of my panniers) eaten in a gazebo at the the town (oops, "city") hall lawn area. The ride here was uneventful, and with darkening clouds, I'll likely call it a day here. Saw no other riders today.

Day 44, Unintended but Planned Century.

July 8, day 44, 100 miles from Eads, CO to Scott City, KS. The ride began early to avoid weather and wind as long as possible. As usual, the headwind began around 11:30, and the average speed began dropping. I had planned on stopping at Leoti, KS, after about 77 miles for the day. About 6 or 7 miles out, two thru riders caught up with me and called out, "Hey Dude, you look like you need a lift; hop on the train!" Pete (school teacher in Boston area) and Ryan (recent Global Economics degree grad) are riding from San Diego to home in Boston area. Until now, they had been riding side by side, but decided to cheat the head wind and share drafting chores. Added to the pace line, I went from 9 - 10 mph to 15 - 16 mph, not to mention the boost of spirits and morale. We breezed into Leoti and stopped for a snack and cold drinks before jumping back on the "train" for 25 more miles to Scott City. Before heading out, two more riders, Jacob (newly graduated from USAF Academy) and his dad hooked up for the ride and share the "pulling." Cheating the wind was a blast! Saw many riders heading both east and west. It turns out that several bike routes converge on this section of highway in Kansas. Joined two other couples for dinner at a local Cafe --Jaques and Marie-Jo from France and heading west, and David and Linda heading east with their Jack Russell Terrier in a small trailer pulled by Dave's bike. It was a socially satisfying day. It was also Pete's 30th birthday, and his girlfriend from Boston showed up in Scott City as a surprise, ten minutes after we all showed up. Ryan had been coordinating with her via cell phone during the day.

Day 43, 60 miles to Eades

Yesterday ended Phase II the same way it began, with a kiss - this time goodbye to Kathy, after two weeks along the Continental Divide. Phase III began the second half of the trip and was marked by heading out to the sparsely populated plains of eastern Colorado. I told Kathy that the first half of the trip was remarkable for the mountains and the western rivers, and that the second half would likely be notable more for the people along the way. This seems to be the case so far! (I'll be getting back to Gillian at another posting.) Also, with heat, I'm at least doubling fluid intake. I've had two days of headwinds, and expect another tomorrow before a favorable shift predicted for Wed./Thur. The wind is tiring. Saw about a dozen antelope. Heading to dinner at a cafe with another cyclist. That's it for now!

P.S. - Kathy made it to Paducah, KY for the night after 584 miles of driving today. Whewww, it's going to be a long bike ride!

Day 42 - 53 Miles to Ordway

Sunday, July 6 - 53 miles to Ordway via Rte. 96 The sun was hot, no rain but thunder and it got dark; was windy. Not much wildlife but saw buffalo, cattle, and horses on a farm. Lunch was a pre-packaged turkey sandwich and for dinner, ramen noodles and a package of chicken. I'm staying at Gillian's place. For years she has hosted bicycle tourist, having toured her self and knowing how much a shower, laundry, computer access and a bed can mean to a cyclist coming off a long hot ride. Her home was destroyed by fire earlier this year but was recently rebuilt. More at a later posting about Gillian, her animals, and the fire that destroyed her home and the homes of 25 others, as well as taking the life of two fire fighters in Ordway. Kathy left today (she's in Salina, KS tonight) after seeing me off at I-25 and Rte. 96 in Pueblo.

Day 41, July 5, 49 Miles to Pueblo, CO

Day 41, July 5, 49 easy miles from Canon (pronounced "Canyon")City to Pueblo, despite a thousand-foot climb. The day began with enjoyable breakfast conversation with Wagner family (Mark, Sandy, and Melinda from North Dakota) vacationing at the Royal Gorge, and about to go rafting through it. The short ride was uneventful and gave me time to think about the good time during the past two weeks with Kathy along. Phase II of the trip is ending and phase III is beginning. As I leave the mountains behind and head for Kansas, conditions will be changing, most notably the temperature. By mid afternoon, it reached 101. However, after all the cold and rain early on, I hope not to complain about the heat - humidity would be a different matter, though. Winter gear goes home with Kathy. I hope I don't lose my climbing legs, earned from riding for weeks through the mountains; I might need them again when I get to the Appalachians. We spent the afternoon doing odd jobs - changing van oil, doing laundry, and sorting out supplies and gear for phase III. We went to Mass at St. Pius X, and capped the day with a big dinner at an Olive Garden. Total Mileage to date: 2,248. -- Tom

Colorado Buffalo on July 4th

Speed Control in Sleepy Rand, Colorado

Storm Clouds Over St. Ignatius, Walden, WY

Kathy Fixing Dinner at Camp

Independence Day at 11,542-foot Hoosier Pass

July 4, Day 40, 94 miles from Breckenridge to Canon City, Colorado. Up early and on the road at 6:30 to beat traffic to Hoosier Pass 11 miles up the road. Tremendous feeling reaching the high point of the trip at 11,542 feet on Independence Day! Last three miles were moderately challenging, but no problem. There was ice in one of the puddles near the top. Fingers were cold, even with winter gloves on. Later in the day it was in the upper 90s, and from Pueblo, Co (tomorrow), the winter gear heads home with Kathy. The heat will be on from here on out as I leave the Rockies after more than a thousand miles. We saw two heards of buffalo each at about 100 head. The scene looked like one from the movie, "Dances With Wolves." We ate out tonight and had a wonderful meal - soon I will be back to my Spartan meals and life on the road. These two weeks have been good! The past two days, I have stopped for a second breakfast. So Hungry!!! Total miles to date: 2200.

Day 39 - 68 Miles to Breckenridge

Thursday, July 3 - 68 miles to Breckenridge, 2,104 total miles. Left at 6:45 with temperature in low 40s. Stopped to put on leggings and gloves. Stopped again for a second breakfast (oatmeal & coffee) 18 miles down the road in Kremmling. Moderate tailwind most of the way to Breckenridge which ascended about 2,000 feet from Hot Sulphur Springs.

Yesterday, we met Dick Chogyoji, our neighbor at the Canyon Motel in Sulphur Springs. He was in town for personal skiing related business. After sitting around talking for a while on the front porch, he asked if we wanted to try a restaurant, Caroline's Cuisine, he'd been eyeing on his ski trips to Winter Park. Kathy had and loved the halibut, while Dick and I had the Morroco lamb couscous stew which was absolutely out of this world. Serendipity again. We had an enchanting evening of talk and food. Thanks, Dick, for the wonderful evening.

Day 38 - 59 Miles to Hot Sulphur Springs

Wednesday, July 2 - early 7:00 departure to dodge the pop-up afternoon thundershowers. Yesterday's lighting bolts were dramatic and a little scary. Went 59 miles to Hot Sulphur Springs, 2,037 total miles to date. Broke the 2,000-mile barrier! We are seeing millions of acres of pine beetle damaged trees reminiscent of East Tennessee. Pine trees are red, brown, and dying. Found out why we had one room left in Walden last nite - FBI has reportedly 52 agents in town related to possible serial murder investigation nearby in Jackson County. Today I saw antelope and a couple of jack rabbits while Kathy got the grand prize for seeing a bear and a deer. Checked into the Canyon Motel about 1:00 and took my first nap in 6 weeks. The rest felt great. That's it for now! -- Tom

Day 37 - 48 Miles to Walden, Colorado

Tuesday, July 1 - 48 miles from Riverside, WY to Walden, CO. Total 1,979 miles to date. It's a new month and a new state (Colorado). Headwinds are always tiring. Period. That's all you need to know about that. I did not take many pictures of the Great Divide Basin. Not for lack of beauty, it is grand and beautiful in its vast, apparent emptiness and subtleness of color, light, texture, and form. It's just that you can't capture panoramic vastness. It would take wide angle IMAX to even come close. You also can't capture the wind, the stillness, the brightness, nor the timelessness of it all. It is breathtaking in its own unique way! By 12:00 I was dodging thunderstorms and waiting 20 minutes for one to pass. We made Walden by 1:30 and lunch at the Moose Creek Cafe. Tomorrow begins serious climbing leading up the next day to Hoosier Pass at over 11,000 feet.

Tentative CO plans: Wed. - overnight at Hot Sulfur Springs or Kremmling, Thurs. - overnight in Silverthorne or Frisco, Fri. - overnight in Hartsel, and Sat. - overnight in Canon City or Florence or if good tailwind, Pueblo.